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Click here for ASDP, Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, where you can find your personal dressmaker, stylist
or color consultant.
THE 3-D YOU
Think of the eye as a small person living in your head. It forms opinions whether you want it to or not and those opinions
can be manipulated by optical illusions -- visual indicators that send a message that is not based upon reality but upon the
relationship of the parts of the scene. So sometimes you think a person is thinner than they are or more artistic or wealthier
or or younger or whatever illusion is the goal.
In designing clothes for a seasoned women it is important to use visual illusions to correct imbalances that occur naturally
with time. They may be in contours or posture or size or color or even energy perceived. This column is about what practical
changes can be made in the design of clothes to counteract age related changes.
THE AGELESS GOALS:
1. To appear physically symmetrical -- left/right and front/back
2. To retain the 'Dominant Ideal' -- that is, the physical proportions that current culture deems ideal for women at
any given time. Right now the Dominant Ideal is still tall/thin with a slightly narrower hip to shoulder ratio. This is only
a goal because it denotes currency, as in looking current. (Take comfort in the fact that this does change but it never changes
during wartime. The last big change here was in the advent of the New Look after WWII).
3. Look healthy. This relates to coloration and perceived energy level. Keyword there is perceived!
That's it. The 3 big ones. Here's how:
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FOR SYMMETRY:
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| Back neck is moved up, no collar. |
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| Notice the side seam swinging backward. |
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| Notice the low shoulder on the left side. |
Color photos, Fitting Your Figure, Threads Magazine, Taunton Press, 1994, a great paperback of all the physical issues in
fitting.
1. Create L/R symmetry by using design features and or padding to balance a low shoulder or a high hip -- never let the
design of the garment point to the problem, unless it adds height or width to an area lacking either.
2. Create F/B symmetry by placing side seams in the middle of the body (top, bottom or both) -- move skirt seam forward
for a protruding abdomen, for instance, so that the body appears evenly divided from the side. Same with shoulder seams.
To correct a permanent slump: Change the neckline as in photo or move the back neck lower and use a collar with a higher
stand (Balenciaga trick!). Or, flare the back of a coat or jacket from the point of the slump.
3. Study the Golden Mean -- the rule of perfect proportions. Just hit Google for the full story and apply it to your
clothes.
4. WEAR CLOTHES THAT FIT!!!!!!!. Anyone on the planet can be fitted correctly and their proportions adjusted in the
process.
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| The Dominant Ideal in action! |
FOR THE DOMINANT IDEAL:
1. Focus on vertical lines in seams, edges, prints, textures, details and accessories. Minimize the horizontals -- horizontals
also are associated with going to sleep, not great for the slower crowd.
2. Widen a shoulder line to balance a larger bust or hip line. This can be a design feature (see cowl shoulder on the
Patterns Page here) or a flatter but firm shoulder pad to extend the shoulder slightly. The waist will look smaller also.
3. Minimize a larger bust line by using such designs as a kimono sleeve with a French dart at the side waist, dart-tucks
at the waist instead of fitted darts, blouson styling, the shift without a waist seam and only slight shaping or a dropped
waistline.
4. Never repeat in your clothing an unattractive line on your body.
5. Minimize hips and waist with skirts and pants that either fall straight from your widest point or flare from your
widest point.
6. Determine your narrowest point and bring the fit in there.
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FOR HEALTH AND ENERGY:
1. Wear shape-wise undergarments. You can be thin and still the contours will have shifted -- shift'm back!
2. Diagonals impart energy; use upward angled lines in collars, front closures and accessories.
3. Use asymmetrical necklines.
4. Avoid prints that overwhelm you or look strangely similar to your wrinkles.
5. Wear the best colors for your face, not necessarily fashion colors. Make sure they are clear colors, subtle but not
too muddy. Black is sophisticated but all black ages, unless it's evening and a sexy cut.
6. Wear high quality fabrics that move with you; you'll appear more energetic. You'll appear thinner in flatter fabrics.
7. Spend more attention to personal coloration in make-up rather than banishing wrinkles.
8. Maintain the best hair you can afford - save on something else.
9. Make an effort to dress every day -- complete the look. Contemporary pantsuits are a great shortcut! Pants look more
energetic.
Check these websites for age insurance!
And finally, not online, but check the Nov-Dec. 2007 issue of AARP for an excellent article, Looking 10 Pounds Thinner...Instantly
by Elizabeth Enright
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Dressing For Adult Professional
Life
We
are living at a time when first impressions are more strongly perceived than ever before. The population is more transient,
cities and towns are larger, we are flooded with media images, and the pace of business is faster -- all these factors make
it less likely that we will get to personally know the people we meet or have the time in business transactions to be sure
of their positions. We must rely more on first impressions than ever. The popular solution to the problem has been the strong
emergence of black as a neutralizer and also as a mask, making it less likely that new acquaintences will perceive a negative
first impression. Unfortunately, black is now a cliche and there is a demand to express more indiviuality.
Permanent impressions are made in the first 30 seconds
and therefore it's important to present a pleasant basis for that impression. The following guidelines identify some commonly
held standards for first impression success.
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First, Think:
Nothing should distract from the business at hand.
The
individual should not be more important than purpose of the encounter.
Consider, are you selling the business or yourself?
Awareness of overall message-- the look--should send positive message of what the business is about.
Look
should be compatible with the business --- customer is getting total impression from their encounter with a single individual.
Customer should not have to avoid the business in order to avoid its people.
Don't wear leisure sportswear.
Know difference between public and private circumstances and the difference between evening clothes and those for daytime.
Design of clothing should have integrity -- decorative features like pockets and closures should actually work --
truth in dressing!
The jacket is still the badge of being in charge (update it) unless your office is very small --
pick it first -- spend on it-- then the shoes -- then the remaining pieces.
If you want a promotion -- copy those
above you, dress like you already have it-- convey authority -- you are a player.
Mental attitudes are important.
Would you rather say no to more business or yourself? You must do so or pay for it.
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20 General Rules of the Game
1. Be sure your clothes are as authentic as possible,
the details must actually function.
2. Do not use fake materials or metals unless they are exceptional.
3.
Focus on one family of colors; warm or cool, use the other as an accent.
4. Look your best but not from the standpoint
of sexual attraction. Identify your best parts and dress them -- play down the rest.
5. Avoid too much fabric, huge
skirts, sleeves, coats, etc.
6. Avoid breaking the body into blocks; emphasize height and only a few horizontals.
7. Get the right undergarments; and always wear a slip or a lining in your clothes.
8. Accessories should
be in the same color family, no matter what fashion says.
9. Use narrow or medium width belts and no flashy buckles
unless you are counting it as jewelry.
10. On jewelry, if in doubt, don't; remove the first thing you notice.
11.
Don't buy it unless it goes perfectly with three items that you actually wear.
12. Identify your root color family; spend the most
money there.
13. Wear darker colors if in doubt; beware of colors that send a strong emotional message (this includes
black), make them subtle.
14. Use darker colors on the bottom and in the bigger areas.
15. Match!
16.
Business wear should be at the knee or a little below, never above.
17. Wear jewelry in only three places, not counting
your watch.
18. Be perfectly clean, pressed and in repair or do not wear it!!
19. Dress your whole self, not your parts.
20.
Smile, give yourself the benefit of the doubt.
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